Since my fascination with bourbon started a couple years ago a lot of developments in the industry have popped up around me here in Washington, D.C. Specifically, a new crop of craft whiskey distillers have launched in the District, and as the popularity of bourbon has grown, so too has the local supply. One of D.C.'s own, Jos. A. Magnus & Co. Distillery, which opened in 2015, has already earned high praise from the spirits world with it's sherry- and cognac-finished bourbon, winning the Double Gold medal and was named the Best Special Barrel-Finished Bourbon at the 2016 San Fransisco World Spirits competition.
The nine-year-old bourbon is an MGP/LDI-sourced whiskey aged in Pedro Ximenez and Oloroso Sherry and Cognac casks before being carefully blended together, recreating the style of the original Jos. A. Magnus Bourbon of the late 1800’s. The story about how the contemporary Joseph Magnus bourbon came to be is actually quite remarkable, starting with a 100-plus-year-old heirloom bottle of bourbon that was procured, tasted, and researched by the family and a handful of bourbon industry experts.
Side note: I'm flirting with the idea of researching the process of how new, startup distillers source their whiskey for release as they craft and make their proprietary whiskies, and looking specifically at the MGP/LDI sourced distilleries, such as Willett, Smooth Ambler, and a handful of other newer whiskey distillers.
From the Washington Post:
“After tasting the 100-plus-year-old Magnus bourbon, we all agreed – Joseph Magnus made truly remarkable bourbon," Nancy Fraley, the distillery's master blender, said in a statement. "By finishing our product the same way Magnus did in the 1890s, we were able to make our Joseph Magnus Bourbon a near match to the original. The fact that when put up against today's top bourbons, it finished Double Gold is a special tribute to him and his amazing spirits.”
Distillery Tour / Tasting
I've traveled along the Kentucky Bourbon Trail a few times, and I've been to some of the big-name distillery tours over the years, both domestic and abroad. A highlight tour that I've had the pleasure of experiencing was the "Hard Hat Tour" at the Buffalo Trace Distillery. For one of the largest producers of American whiskey in the world, this was a fantastic (and intimate) walking tour that I'd highly recommend to any fan of whiskey.
The Jos. A. Magnus tour marks the second distillery tour I've done in DC this past year. A local's favorite spot, Green Hat Gin Distillery, is a fun "work for drinks" setting that puts its patrons to work by adding them into the assembly line for bottling. Hey, keep the booze a'comin' and I'm fine with a little free labor. They're also cooking up some bourbon as well, which should be released in the next couple of years, so look for "Green Hat Bourbon" in the near future. In any case, as cool as the experience was, the "tour" is more of a short walk to the back of the small industrial park complex that triples as a tasting area and gift shop.
Jos. A. Magnus & Co. has a similar, albeit larger, concept for its visitors. Once you gain entry, a slight hike up the memorabilia-clad stairwell and you find yourself at a fairly large tasting room, with a small bar at the back. We started out with a quick tasting, running through the other variants that the distiller is producing, including Vigilant gin, which isn't too shabby to a non-gin-drinker as myself.
After doing the rounds of gin and vodka, it was finally time to sip the bourbon! Oh good gracious, is it tasty. After the sippy teaser, we were offered to choose from an array of punch-style cocktails resting at the end of the bar, each made with the different liquors produced by the distiller. I went with the blueberry bourbon punch cocktail, naturally. Later in the review I'll tell you why I believe they go with the blueberry compliment here. The bourbon was great. The cocktail was standard. Next, we go to see the racks and stills.
Again, we're in D.C. Space is hard to come by and fitting a full-fledged distillery into the city is ambitious in and of itself. So it's no surprise that this tour takes all of about 10 minutes to roam around the open concept facility while getting the back story of the newly awarded bourbon. However, what makes this distillery unique is their full service bar sectioned off in the distilling area. We stopped here and had a cocktail or two to start the day off right, considering our tour was scheduled at noon, we were making good progress.
Of course, before we parted ways with the venue, I stopped and grabbed a bottle of the Joseph Magnus bourbon for myself. Priced right around $90 per bottle (with complimentary glasses etched with the Magnus "crest") seemed a decent fetching for this whiskey. We continued on to another new D.C. distillery not too far away, One Eight Distilling, to continue the exploration.
Tasting this bourbon at the distillery when I'm enjoying the company of friends doesn't afford me a good opportunity to sit down and really appreciate this whiskey. Having tasted so many whiskies over the years, I usually like to be fairly diligent when preparing for a review, and will sit down with my Glencairn glass and deliberately nose and taste and take notes before I feel comfortable putting something together for peer review. I am fairly new to the reviewing world of whiskey, so I owe it to you, the reader, to take my time to put together a solid review. It's my goal that my reviews helps you make a decision to try or buy the reviewed whiskey, especially this one, since this is a very new bourbon. At first blush, I knew this bourbon would be special. Now, I get to break it down for you.
Name: Joseph Magnus Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Age: 9 years
Color: Deep red, auburn. Much darker than the traditional bourbon coloring.
Nose: Rich red fruit aromatics, highlights of black cherry and red berries, lowlights of orange citrus. Cinnamon and chocolate.
Impression: Very deep and viscous. A really good "weight" to this bourbon with a tremendous mouthfeel. There's very little heat or "spice" on the tongue and has an almost creamy texture. Dark fruits pop at first followed by milk chocolate which really resonates. It stays on the palette for a good while, playing with the taste buds. There's also some rye in that mashbill, which I've come to expect with the MGP sourced stuff.
Overview: This is a supremely sweet and succulent bourbon. The attribution of the sherry and cognac really stand out and separates this from your tradition bourbon swill, packing in ample dark berry and dried fruit flavors. I think this is why the Jos. A. Magnus folks make a blueberry punch cocktail with it. The 100 proof could be little higher to knock down the sweet characteristics. I find myself wanting just a tad more heat and wood notes. This whiskey rolls over the tongue almost like a thin syrup, which isn't necessarily a bad thing.
When you add a little water, you'll find those fruits exploding in the flavor profile. Big black cherry notes, with vanilla bean, and hints of whipped cream. Again, at a higher proof, somewhere in the 110-115 range, would fit this bourbon so nicely. The water unleashed the incredible finishing flavors, but pulls down the heat a little too much, so it's hard to find a good balance for my taste.
Recommendation: Buy it, if you can find it. Some places have it for close $100, and I've seen it shelved as low as $75, which is surprising since the direct sale at the distillery was $90. It's a good deal considering the amount of work that's gone into crafting this whiskey, making it one of the best "finished" bourbons I've tried.
Grade: 3.5 - Excellent. Even as a Double Gold winner, I really (really) wish the Joseph Magnus were a slightly higher proof. I understand this will have broader appeal at the base 100 proof, but it's such a "sweet" bourbon that some heat and spice would balance it out so nicely. I actually would consider this a very respectable dessert whiskey, and honestly, reminds me so much of a spoonful of Cocoa Puffs cereal. Take that, for what it's worth.
Editors Note: I received a note from Nancy Fraley, Master Distiller at Jos. A. Magnus, with an explanation regarding the proof of the whiskey, and why it stands at 100 proof. As she puts it:
"[The barrels] spent their first 7 to 8 years in a very cool, damp section of a rick house in KY, so the proof fell substantially over that time. Because of the cool and damp conditions, the barrels tend to sit somewhere between 98 to 103 proof, so their is no option of having a higher proof whiskey. When the barrels are taken to the distillery in D.C. for the cask finishing program in Oloroso, PX, and Cognac, they tend to "wake up" and are enlivened again in the hotter warehousing conditions.
However, even with the new maturation conditions, the proof is still considerably low. Each blend that I assemble almost always evens out to around 100 proof, so there is usually no water addition, or if there is, it is usually negligible (as in just enough water to go from 101 down to 100 proof). Thus, the whiskey is pretty much at cask strength with each coupe."